Crazy for Koo

No doubt about it, Koo excels at serving wonderfully fresh sushi and sashimi. Chef/owner Kiyoshi Hayakawa (Sushi Ran, Ace Wasabi’s, Tokyo GoGo) turns out impressive quality fish with daily specials from his simple, clean Irving Street sushi bar and restaurant. There are also fusion dishes like shrimp and scallop dumplings with a drizzle of chili oil and mango puree, grilled artichokes, and duck breast salad with a mustard-ginger-pineapple sauce. The latter is our favorite, but overall, the sushi bar items are really their forte. Servers are always courteous and efficient. Koo has a nice selection of sake and my husband likes the fact that they serve Asahi Black which he can't find at many restaurants in town.

One unique and fun dish to eat is appropriately named A Spoonful of Happiness. You actually receive two delicious spoonfuls: one with uni (sea urchin), quail egg, tobiko and ponzu sauce; the other with ankimo (monkfish liver) wrapped with whitefish, ponzu and truffle oil. A shot of dry sake accompanies them. The first bite is smooth and creamy and the second bursts with flavor. Wow, my tastebuds do cartwheels.

A few of our favorite types of sushi here are the wild aji (mackerel) garnished with green onions, the otoro or indulgently fatty blue fin tuna, wild King salmon, and nasu or Japanese eggplant. Rather than rattle off a long list, let's just say that my husband and I haven't met a fish here that we didn't like.

We recently discovered that they don’t like to do substitutions which created a minor hiccup when we took our kids there for dinner last week. My son wanted to have white rice instead of mashed potatoes (they call it potato salad) with his chicken teriyaki, but they said they couldn’t do a swap. So, we ordered a bowl of rice on the side. And, their chicken comes with a sweet chutney rather than classic teriyaki sauce which my son wasn't too keen about. He and my daughter were both happier with the tempura.

Again, if you focus on goodies from the sushi bar, you are bound to go home happy. This is a nice place to go with a group of friends for dinner. Just note that parking can be difficult in the neighborhood, especially on weekend nights, and it can be tough to get a table if you don’t plan ahead. Be sure to make reservations and give yourself extra time to park.

Koo. 408 Irving Street (between 5th and 6th Avenues), San Francisco, CA 94122. 451.731.7077. Closed Mondays.

Juban - fun, do it yourself grilling in Japantown

This yakiniku, or "grilled meat" joint is a good place to take people for an interactive eating experience. Bigger kids especially love being able to cook their own food. There are 16 grills at the tables and 8 more built into the circular bar at the center of the large dining room. That's a lot of cooking going on at the same time, but it never gets too smoky or hot which is a huge plus. They have a pretty extensive Asian menu with a la carte meats, veggies, seafood and accompaniments which are served family style. They also have a handful of soups, and rice and noodle dishes. If you prefer, you can opt to have the prix fixe menu for $62.25 or $82.75 which feeds two to three people each.

Juban is not a fancy place, but it's a fun spot for casual celebrations like birthdays. I also like the little touches, like special plastic kids' dinnerware and utensils (my daughter was thrilled to get a Winnie the Pooh set) a small bucket of ice to keep my bottle of sake chilled, and wet napkins at the end of the meal for everyone.

Two favorites are the miso salmon ($9) and sea scallops ($11). The beef tataki ($7.50) actually tastes better heated up and cooked through on the grill; it brings out the nice, strong ginger flavor and makes the meat more tender. The onmen ($7.50),hot somen noodles with egg, spinach and shittake mushrooms, is apparently a favorite among young children, but the beef broth was very subtle and proved to be too bland for my preschooler. She enjoyed the grilled items over rice much more.

They didn't have lobster tails the night we went, so my son ordered the rib eye ($9.50 instead and was very happy with it. He also ordered the green tea mochi for dessert but they didn't have it, so he got green tea ice cream ($3) which he enjoyed. They do carry top of the line Wagyu beef which we will have to try the next time we go.

Juban Yakiniku, Japantown, San Francisco. See web site for other locations.

Oyaji - sushi and izakaya style fare in the Outer Richmond

There's a little gem tucked across the street from the Lincoln Park Golf Course on Clement Street that serves good izakaya style dishes and sushi. I like the hot towels they pass out when you sit down, and enjoy eating in their cozy, semi-private booths. They have a killer crab and cucumber salad (kani su), delicious skewered chicken meatballs (tsukune) and great nigiri. My son loves the shrimp tempura as well as the Oyaji beef which is grilled rib eye with sauteed onions and Oyaji sauce served on a sizzling platter. It's not on the menu, but my daughter usually starts with a takuwan roll. She enoys the skewered duck (aigamo), too.

We've happily devoured the fried whole flounder (karei karaage), eyeballs and all. Cabbage rolls, stewed pork belly (butano-kakuni), and steamed clams in sake (asari no sakamushi) are pretty tasty, too. I always have saba sashimi, it's my favorite.

Last night, we tried skewered chicken gizzard (sunagimo) which, all I can say is, truly an acquired taste. The crunchy texture totally threw us off. I can't say that I'll be ordering that again anytime soon. We also sampled sautéed squid in butter and soy sauce (ika sauté) which my husband devoured - I got one little bite. The cha-shu ramen had great chewy noodles and tons of tender pork but was a little salty.

Oyaji always seems to be bustling, even on a weekday night. Last night, there were a mix of locals and Japanese people in business attire. Take a look at the photos of all the food we ate. Our bill came to a respectable $66.80 - it also includes tea and a soda.


For more info: Oyaji Restaurant