Monday, May 4, 2009

Kingfish serves Creole-inspired food in a cool setting









Executive chef Tony Flier is running the kitchen again at Kingfish and last week, the San Mateo eatery launched his new, all-day menu. It is more focused and has fewer items than before but the way the menu is laid out, it seems like there's tons more. During my single days, I used to head over there after work with friends for happy hour. But after I left my job in Silicon Valley, I just stopped going there, for no particular reason other than there were so many other fun places closer to home in San Francisco. Yesterday, my girlfriend, her three-year-old son and I met there for lunch and it was nice to see that the space, decorated throughout with colorful, whimsical art, still has its Southern charm and lively vibe.

My girlfriend is a healthy eater, she's studying to become a registered dietician and used to be my personal trainer. So I exerted some self-control and opted to go on the lighter side - I figured I'd save the gumbo and blackened catfish with cheesy grits for when I'm alone and feeling skinny. We both ordered from the "warm and field good salads" section of the menu. She got the King Louie Salad ($16.50) with poached shrimp, Dungeness crab, boiled egg, cucumbers, radishes, capers, red onions, and watercress in classic louie dressing. She substituted other greens for the iceberg and asked for dressing on the side. I had Tony's Grilled Calamari Salad "Goombah Style" ($12.95) with cannellini beans, oven ripened tomatoes, frisse, mache and watercress in a lemon vinaigrette.

My friend enjoyed her dish which looked good; light and fresh. Unfortunately, I didn't care for mine. The calamari was soft, almost mushy. And there wasn't very much of it, which in this case, was a good thing. The rest of the salad was mediocre because the ingredients didn't seem to mesh well together. I also had the grilled artichoke ($8) which came with two types of Creole remoulade. The artichoke was steamed to perfection but lacked smokiness from the grill. One dressing was like a sweet relish that was too chunky to spread onto the artichoke leaves, it kept falling off. The other looked like classic tartar sauce but was milder. It may not be fair to compare, but I have to say that Pacific Catch on 9th Avenue is still the one to beat for great grilled artichoke, especially because it comes with that yummy basil aioli. But that's another story.

Our server brought my friend's son a mini sketch board to keep him occupied as he waited for his order of corn bread ($6). They do have a kids' menu, but my friend decided to share her shrimp salad with her youngster. When the corn bread arrived in its cute cast iron pot, our little eater dug right in with gusto. But halfway through, he scrunched up his face and exclaimed that it was too spicy. When my friend took a taste, she realized that it did pack some heat. Oops, it would have been nice if our server had mentioned that when we placed our order. Nevertheless, our server was super nice, conscientious overall, and quick on her feet. She immediately brought a small cupful of maraschino cherries which cooled down the young tyke's tastebuds and brought a smile to his face.

Some prices seem a bit high - a couple of the fish dishes that caught my eye range between $21 and $27, a tad too steep for lunch. But, they do have a slew of lower priced items such as po' boys between $12.50 and $19.50, bowls of beer crab bisque and clam chowder for $9.50, steamed mussels and clams for $14, and sushi rolls for $9.50 to $11.50. They also have a bunch of affordable appetizers like potato skins with a tasso ham-jalapeño fondue ($8.50), filet mignon potstickers ($8.50), salt and pepper calamari ($9), three lil' boys hamburgers ($10) and crawfish dumplings in coconut curry sauce ($9.50).

Based upon today's samplings, I have to say I was a little disappointed but I will most likely be back. The thing is, I want to like the place because it's a pretty cool spot and holds special memories of good times spent with friends. Besides, what's not to like about a restaurant whose motto is "Eat like a King, Drink like a Fish" and boasts an artsy setting with cozy booth seating, an oyster bar with a TV, three cocktail bars with sports TVs, occasional live music, a private Estate Room perfect for smaller dinners, a pretty King's Room and spacious Mezzanine upstairs? Since they are only a week into their new menu, I'll cut them some slack and revisit them down the road.

Kingfish will have a Mother's Day brunch buffet from 10:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., $35.95 adults, $12.95 children; and buffet dinner 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., $39.95 adults, $12.95 children.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Local reopenings and specials you won't want to miss

The choices are endless in this gastronomic paradise we call the Bay Area. It's always so hard to decide where to eat next. Well, here is more food for thought that may help you pare down your "must-try" list throughout the weekend and into early next week.

This Friday, Mustards Grill reopens after clean up from the fire that closed it down in February and reportedy caused nearly $100,000 in damages. If the wine country is too far to travel, try the newly redone Grand Cafe. With executive chef Mauro Pando at the helm now, they have a new Brasserie menu featuring items from their wood-burning oven and a slew of dishes from land and sea.

On Saturday, May 2nd, Picán is hosting A Taste of the Kentucky Derby starting at 1:30 p.m. Bourbon and Burgoo-a-plenty, for sure.

Sundays are kids' night at Luella. Children under 10 can enjoy items off of the little luella menu like Shirley Temples ($1.50), mac and cheese ($4), chicken pot pie ($6), Margherita pizza ($5) and ice cream sundaes ($4).

Globe hosts Sunday Dinner from 6:00 p.m. until midnight showcasing fresh, local products from the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market each week.

At Luna Park on Sunday through Thursday nights, there are "Blue Plate Specials," literally served on a blue tray. Ranging in price from $10 - $12, you can get comfort food that changes weekly but includes items like meatloaf, chicken fried steak, beef stew and vegan cassoulet. And, buy $5 drink specials like signature mojitos or sangria in...you guessed it...blue glassware. By the way, if you become a "fan" of theirs on Facebook or follow them on Twitter, you'll find out about cool promotions like their recent mustache night, wear your favorite hat night or password night where you can get special deals on food and drinks.

In keeping with the blue color scheme, I wanted to tell you about The Blue Plate Restaurant which is celebrating its 10th anniversary throughout the month of May with a three-course dinner for $25. You bet they're serving their famous meatloaf, and if you're a vegetarian, don't worry, they have an option for you. The meal will also come with a seasonal salad and dessert, and will be served during their early seating from 5:30 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. If it's super popular, they may offer this special throughout the rest of the evening. They have new hours starting Sunday and will be open for dinner seven days a week. Monday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. and Sunday, 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

For Cinco de Mayo, pop into Tres Agaves for beer and drink specials, live mariachi and a DJ all night. They open at 10:00 a.m.! Mamacita is adding special items to their menu just for the occasion and will have a traditional style mariachi band. They will be open from 3:00 p.m. until whenever the fiesta is over. If you're in the Peninsula, Hola! in Burlingame and Belmont will have drink specials, music, giveaways and their website says the Cuervo and Corona girls will be there. Doña Tomás in Oakland will offer their regular menu and stay open later than usual to accommodate revelers.

Tell me about your favorite dining adventures at . I'd love to hear from you! Happy eating!

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

La Mar is popularizing world-class Peruvian food one plate at a time









Saturday was date night with my husband and we had 9 o'clock dinner reservations at La Mar Cebicheria, Gastón Acurio's first San Francisco project at Pier 1½ next to the Ferry Building. I had read about Acurio, he is a heavy hitter in Peruvian cuisine. He owns many restaurants, has published cookbooks and is a celebrity TV chef. Beyond that, I didn't know what to expect.

We took a cab to the Embarcadero and were immediately drawn into the spacious, vibrant space, accented in blue, green and burnt orange hues. We were a tad early so hubby and I sidled up to the bar and grabbed a Cristal Peruvian beer ($5) and pisco sour ($10), respectively. My cocktail, made from distilled grapes with lime juice, simple syrup, egg whites and bitters was so refreshing. It was a perfect combo of tart, sweet, bitter and creamy. We decided to share the empanadas de ají de gallina ($10) while we waited. Two big, savory pockets filled with tender hen arrived with a small salad tossed in a sweet vinaigrette. It was delish! We were really excited about the rest of the meal.

As soon as we were done, the hostess led us past the bustling lounge and raw bar showcasing beautiful, fresh octopus, and into the main dining room where my seat offered a good view of the open kitchen. We shared a bunch of things, starting with the cebiche sampler. It consisted of four plates of fish briefly marinated in different types of "leche de tigre," or chili peppers and lime juice. The clásico featured California halibut and red onions in habanero pepper leche de tigre with Peruvian corn and yam. In the mixto, there was Mahi Mahi, calamari, octopus and habanero pepper in ají amarillo leche de tigre, with cilantro and red onion. In the nikei, ahi tuna was the star, with red onion and Japanese cucumber, in tamarind leche de tigre with avocado. Finally, the chifa consisted of Mahi Mahi with peanuts, scallions, ginger, pickled carrots, daikon, habanero pepper, wonton strips and cilantro with sesame leche de tigre. As many of you know by now, I don't do peanuts, so I had the chifa without, but it was still excellent. We enjoyed each kind immensely, and my husband says it was the best cebiche he has ever tasted. The fish was incredibly fresh and the flavors really popped. Just beware of those thin slices of habanero pepper hiding beneath the cilantro leaves, unless you like setting your tongue on fire.

The anticuchos de pulpo ($13), or grilled octopus skewers with herbed mashed potato with chimichurri sauce and ají panca, is a must. It's amazing. You get large pieces of tender octopus boasting a nice smokey flavor with a slightly sweet hint.

The causa limeña ($12) came out next. It had whipped potato with Dungeness crab, avocado puree, quail egg, cherry tomatoes, ají amarillo Huancaina sauce with basil cilantro oil. It was like a dressed up crab salad, tasty and creamy, but didn't wow us as much as the other items we sampled.

Our server was so enthusiastic about the anticuchos de corazón ($11), or grilled beef heart skewers, which he claimed were so reminiscent of the ones he found while traveling in Peru, that we had to give them a shot. We did this, despite our misgivings, having recently eaten duck heart elsewhere that was really tough and tasted like iron. Well, right on, Nick, you called it! It was surprisingly good, with a texture somewhat similar to a filet. The red rocoto sauce packed a lot of heat, wow! But fortunately, it was on the side so we could use as much or little as we wanted.

The complimentary basket of potato, sweet potato and plantain chips was good which is a testament to how well food is seasoned and prepared here. My husband isn't a big fan of potatoes, but he actually liked the potato chips the best. The chips were crispy, perfectly salted, cut on the thicker side and not all greasy. They came with three sauces: huancaína with ají amarillo, rocoto, and ocopa with peanuts. To boot, my husband also enjoyed the potatoes prepared in different ways in the rest of the dishes; what a nice surprise.

We were too full for dessert, but next time, I may save room for the rollitos de arroz con leche ($10), a rice pudding spring roll topped with homemade ají amarillo and orange marmalade with passion fruit sorbet. We'll see, because first, I want to try other items including tiraditos, sopas, salads, rice plates and main entrees. They also have an interesting wine list with varieties from South America, Spain and California which needs exploring. My husband and I finished our drinks, then rolled out totally content.

Our hostess and server were very friendly and attentive, and we appreciated it when the manager stopped by our table to see how we were doing. We loved the airy space and lively atmosphere, it felt celebratory. It would be great to return to La Mar during the day to take in the Bay view on their 80-seat patio which is decked out in breezy all-white furniture. If our second visit is as good as our first, then I wouldn't hesistate to recommend this place for a date, happy hour, girls' night out, a work event or private party. I'm guessing that Acurio will soon succeed in making cebiche as ubiquitous as sushi around town.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Monday morsels: feasts, festivities, free food and fresh spots




Zagat says One Market chef Mark Dommen is preparing a special five-course dinner highlighting fresh ingredients from local purveyors. Feast on signature items including Dungeness crab salad with avocado, cucumber and a lemon grass sorbet, Alaskan halibut cooked sous vide, and beef cheeks braised with...oooh... Guinness! Pastry chef Patti Dellamonica-Bauler will do, what else, dessert. The cost is $59/person before tax and tip, plus $15 for int'l beer pairing or $25 for wine pairing. Call 415.777.5577 to reserve your table!

Today, a new sushi place emerges in Hayes Valley, sharing company with the likes of Domo and Sebo. It is called Otoro Sushi, named after the tasty, melt-in-your-mouth, top-of-the-line bluefin tuna. In my book, there can never be too many sushi-izakaya style restaurants to satiate me. The big test will be the saba...205 Oak at Gough. They will be open for lunch (11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.) and dinner (5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m., last call at 10:30 p.m.), Monday through Saturday, and for dinner only on Sundays. 415.553.3986.

Get your free KFC! Their latest "unfried" recipe is making its debut. Step into any location today and sample a piece of the Kentucky Grilled Chicken for yourself. The concept of grilled food at KFC sort of puts my head on tilt, but okay, I'll try it, especially if it's on the house.

I poked my head into Bistro Gambrinus last week and interrupted a meeting long enough to find out that they will open their doors at the end of the month. They are still working on their menu and applying finishing touches, but from the looks of it, there may be a new watering hole worth trying to find parking for on Fulton near Masonic.

Have you heard about Jamba's School Bananananza '09? Jamba Juice is donating 20% of sales to local schools until May 24th. See the website for more info or call your nearest location for a list of participating schools.

Not sure where you're going to celebrate Cinco de Mayo next Tuesday? Here is what's happening at several places in the city. Mercedes - Hair of the Dog Cantina will be open for lunch from 11:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. so you can start whooping it up early. They will be closed for a private function in the evening. But, how about heading over to Tommy's Mexican Restaurant next? Yes, I know they are usually closed on Tuesdays, but they will be open, open, open from 12 noon until 11:00 p.m on this festive day. There's also T.G.I.Friday's which is offering some 5¢ appetizers to go with their blackberry margaritas, 4-7 p.m. Chevys will serve their regular menu, but remember, kids eat free on Tuesdays with the purchase of a regular priced entree. I'll list more spots as Cinco de Mayo nears, so be sure to come back to my page soon!

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Straits: a slice of Singapore in San Francisco







I took my friend out for a belated birthday lunch today, and since she works at Nordstrom, we decided to try Straits in Westfield Shopping Center. It has a Singaporean menu which reflects that country's cultural diversity. Four of the major culinary influences are Malaysian/Indonesian, Chinese, Indian and Nonya. There are many small plates, salads and big plates to choose from, so to get optimum sampling in, we shared a few things. We had the Roti Prata, a crisp, buttery, griddled Indian flatbread with a yellow curry dipping sauce ($7). It had an interesting texture that was crisp, chewy, and flakey and it was definitely buttery, kind of like a pressed croissant. The Poh Pia are freshly made "spring rolls" filled with jicama, carrots, prawns, Chinese sausage, ground nuts and egg served with a spicy plum sauce ($9). We enjoyed them sans nuts with the plum sauce that I actually found mild and fruity, not at all spicy.

The Fuji Apple and Prawn Salad was piled high with julienned apple and jicama, cilantro and three poached prawns in a light lemongrass-mint vinaigrette ($12). It was refreshing, but it would have been nice to have one or two more pieces of shrimp. My favorite item was the Ahi Tuna Tower, chopped ahi tossed with ginger, onion and kaffir lime leaf served with cassava chips, wasabi and black pepper ($15). I liked how the light crunch of the chips balanced the softness of the sashimi, and the clear-your-sinuses kick from the wasabi brought the dish to life, in a good way. My friend had a mango flavored Singapore Soda ($4) and I tried their house-mixed lemongrass and mint beverage ($4) which was sweeter and less minty than I expected, but I guzzled it down nonetheless.

Everything was attractively presented and service was great. While none of the food I tried knocked my socks off, I can see Straits as a fun change of pace once in a while when you need to refuel while power-shopping or want to meet friends for drinks and a bite to eat in that neighborhood. Tip: Bring your movie ticket stub from any theater the same day and get 10% off lunch or dinner (not including alcohol). See their website for other locations including Burlingame and Santana Row in San Jose.

For more info: Straits Restaurant

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Cure the thirst, Spring lamb, new digs and something for mama

Haven't you worked up a thirst from this recent heat wave? Happy hour at Jeanty at Jack's just might quench it. Monday through Friday, from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., they feature $3 beer, $7 wine and best of all, $1 Hog Island oysters. Stay for dinner, too, since their food is so good!

Speaking of satisfying one's thirst, how about heading to Suppenküche for a few cold brews? They have valet parking now from Wednesday through Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., $7/car. For those of you who love their hearty German fare like I do, you can find recipes for their braised beef rolls with spätzle and marinated red cabbage online. Don't miss their anniversary party which is tentatively slated for May 21st; they should be able to confirm the date next week.

Next Wednesday, April 29th, Coco500 chef Michael Morrison celebrates Spring by preparing a four course tasting menu ($65) of central valley lamb. If you like, pair it with the newest releases from A Donkey and Goat, a wife and husband owned and operated winery in Berkeley ($30). Visit their website for the menu.

Did you know that Bar Crudo's last day on Bush Street will be April 25th? But don't worry, they are reopening at 655 Divisadero on May 1st!

The tablehopper notes that Chef Charlie Kleinman (Fifth Floor and Fish & Farm) has embarked upon a new project slated to open in the FiDi in June. It's focus? I bet you won't guess,...barbecue! I'll keep you updated as I get more info.

Don't forget that Mother's Day is on Sunday, May 10th. You can go to opentable to book your reservations.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Dining Out For Life: dine out, fight AIDS on April 30th

On April 30th, you can take part in Dining Out For Life, an annual dining fundraising event for HIV and AIDS organizations in the United States. More than 3,500 restaurants participate and nearly $4 million dollars is raised each year. Over 100 local restaurants will donate 25% of their food sales, and some will donate 25% of food and liquor sales. Some San Francisco restaurants include 2223 Restaurant and Bar, Amici's Pizzeria, AsiaSF, Butterfly, Catch, Chaya Brasserie, Destino, Foreign Cinema, Fringale, Lime, paul K, Pres a Vi, RNM Restaurant, Sauce and Slow Club. For a complete list, click here. All you have to do is make a reservation and enjoy a meal at your favorite participating restaurant, and the restaurants will do their part. Pretty cool, huh? Go here for a list of local sponsors.