Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Tuesday tidbits: Bar Crudo reopens, Absinthe features Top Chef soup, adieu to Jeanty at Jack's

Since yesterday was a holiday, I didn't post my usual "Monday morsels" article, but in case you were missing your weekly scoop, here are your Tuesday Tidbits...

Bar Crudo
has reopened in its new Divisadero digs for dinner. Look for lunch service in the near future. They tell me they will start taking reservations on Monday. 655 Divisadero between Hayes and Grove. 415.409.0679.

Chef Jamie Lauren sent a Tweet that the chilled corn soup with mint and chili oil you saw on "Top Chef" is now on the menu at Absinthe! 398 Hayes at Gough. 415.551.1590.

Sadly, we have to bid adieu to Jeanty at Jack's. Philippe Jeanty closed the doors of his unique Downtown locale on Friday, after a seven year stint. The good news is that you can still get his amazing tomato soup in puff pastry, coq au vin and cassoulet at Bistro Jeanty in Napa. And, if you go to the Bistro Jeanty web site, you can download the tomato soup recipe and make it at home!

Monday, May 25, 2009

Chapeau! - once is enough

I had high expectations about this place since so many people have raved about it, but unfortunately, our dinner experience was less than impressive. I know Michael Bauer eats at a restaurant three times before he writes a review, and my hat goes off to him since in instances like this, I have absolutely no desire to return a second or third time. They pack so many people into such tight quarters, I don't understand how it can be enjoyable.

My husband dropped me off while he looked for parking, and despite being seated promptly between a couple of two-tops within a short handshake distance from me, all of the waitstaff proceeded to ignore me. There I sat, for nearly 10 minutes, without anyone acknowledging my presence. No one offered me a glass of water or a menu while I waited. It wasn't until my husband walked in and joined me that I suddenly became visible.

Then, when we did order, the server had to shout in order for my husband to hear him across our tiny table. The din was so loud that the server bellowed deafeningly over my right shoulder. Later, I asked the server to switch to my other side and I plugged my good ear while he talked. I kid you not. And, as another server cleared a dirty plate from a neighboring table and turned around, he clipped my husband in the head!

The food was good, but was lost amidst the hot, noisy, claustrophobic bustle.

I know they recently took over Clementine, one of our favorite spots on Clement Street, but I've been wary to return, for fear that they have doubled the seating to replicate the Chapeau! experience.

Juban - fun, do it yourself grilling in Japantown


This yakiniku, or "grilled meat" joint is a good place to take people for an interactive eating experience. Bigger kids especially love being able to cook their own food. There are 16 grills at the tables and 8 more built into the circular bar at the center of the large dining room. That's a lot of cooking going on at the same time, but it never gets too smoky or hot which is a huge plus. They have a pretty extensive Asian menu with a la carte meats, veggies, seafood and accompaniments which are served family style. They also have a handful of soups, and rice and noodle dishes. If you prefer, you can opt to have the prix fixe menu for $62.25 or $82.75 which feeds two to three people each.

Juban is not a fancy place, but it's a fun spot for casual celebrations like birthdays. I also like the little touches, like special plastic kids' dinnerware and utensils (my daughter was thrilled to get a Winnie the Pooh set) a small bucket of ice to keep my bottle of sake chilled, and wet napkins at the end of the meal for everyone.

Two favorites are the miso salmon ($9) and sea scallops ($11). The beef tataki ($7.50) actually tastes better heated up and cooked through on the grill; it brings out the nice, strong ginger flavor and makes the meat more tender. The onmen ($7.50),hot somen noodles with egg, spinach and shittake mushrooms, is apparently a favorite among young children, but the beef broth was very subtle and proved to be too bland for my preschooler. She enjoyed the grilled items over rice much more.

They didn't have lobster tails the night we went, so my son ordered the rib eye ($9.50 instead and was very happy with it. He also ordered the green tea mochi for dessert but they didn't have it, so he got green tea ice cream ($3) which he enjoyed. They do carry top of the line Wagyu beef which we will have to try the next time we go.

Juban Yakiniku, Japantown, San Francisco. See web site for other locations.

Sundance Kitchen's manager keeps Island spirit alive



I've mentioned this before, but not in so much detail. I was saddened when Honu's in Buchanan Mall closed, but excited to discover that former owner Pat Da Silva-Fong manages Sundance Kitchen next to the Sundance movie theater. She has infused Hawaiian influences in their menu and brought live entertainment to the new venue on Friday and Saturday nights, starting at 9:00 p.m. Granted, it's not the same as Honu's - it's a lot bigger and thus not as homey, and it's pricier. Still, it's nice to see that the Island spirit that made Honu's such a favorite still lives on, just around the corner from Pat's old digs. One of the pluses about the new spot is the full bar makes a mean green tea cocktail with top shelf vodka.

Here are a couple of our favorite dishes:

Kobe beef sliders($11.95) - a trio of yummy, beefy burgers with arugula, carmelized onions and tomatoes.

10" Ultimate Hawaiian Pizza ($11.95) with kalua pork and pineapple - a great take on this style pizza - salty, sweet, slightly greasy, cheesy goodness.

My son was pleased to see that they kept the recipe for kalbi short ribs ($14.95), although now they serve it with kimchi fried rice, a little too spicy for his taste. They are cool about substituting white rice, though.

La Terrasse - French fare in the Presidio






One of our favorite places to go for Sunday brunch is La Terrasse, a French eatery nestled in the historic Presidio. They have a lovely patio with umbrellas and heat lamps with a scenic view of the Bay. La Terrasse offers simple, satisfying, consistently good food in a relaxed atmosphere.

Our three year old daughter enjoys coming here after her swimming classes nearby because the greet her with a big, warm welcome, often give her a coloring book with crayons and sometimes turn their bar TV to the cartoon channel. She loves their wood fired mozzarella pizza, sans basil, as well as their French toast smothered in maple syrup.

At lunch and dinner, this place makes delicious classics including rainbow trout almondine over spinach, nicoise salad with grilled ahi tuna, and mussels in garlic/butter/white wine Pernod sauce.

They make interesting cocktails like the Golden Gate ($10) which has champagne, cointreau, brandy and orange and lemon juices.

Some of their best dishes:

Smoked Salmon Benedict ($14). This is my favorite kind of eggs benedict here although the crab and California (bacon/tomato/avocado) are good, too. The salmon is plentiful and topped with tobiko caviar. Underneath sits a large poached egg sauteed spinach, the perfect amount of Hollandaise sauce and a soft brioche.

French Toast ($12). The crunchy, chewy bread makes this dish so unique. I'm not even a big fan of French toast in general, but this one is absolutely addicting. The batter consists of Brandy, sugar, milk, and vanilla. It's sweet but not too sweet, and leaves you wanting more, even if your brain tells you you're full.

Huevos Rancheros (I don't recall the price). They added several Mexican style brunch items a few months ago. This tasty one has two eggs prepared your way with black beans, salsa, diced potatoes, cheese and two flour tortillas (I substitute corn tortillas).

Cheeseburger ($15),$13 without cheese. A big beef patty on a hearty bun with onions, tomatoes, lettuce and your choice of gruyere or roquefort cheese. It comes with french fries which can be substituted for a small green salad.

Kokkari - Greek fare good enough for the gods






Several years ago, when I was still working in an executive briefing center for a high tech company, my friends and I used to meet at Kokkari from time to time and have dinner before heading out for late night dancing and drinks. It was always bustling with attractive people, the food was consistently tasty, we loved the rustic and inviting atmosphere, and it was spacious enough to accommodate our larger numbers without feeling cramped.

It had been awhile since I'd been back, but last week, my girlfriend and I met there for lunch since she works nearby. Immediately, the friendly hostess and warm Saloni, or front room, with a large stone fireplace and dramatic bar, beckoned me. We were seated at a cheery table by the oversized window along Jackson street in the Kouzina, or kitchen dining area, with high ceilings. Although two different people asked us what type of water we wanted, the rest of lunch service was seamless. The food was better than I remember.

We shared grilled lamb riblets ($9.25) lightly seasoned with oregano and lemon which were hearty, finger-licking starters. We split dolmathes ($7), a plate of grape leaves stuffed with rice, dill and mint. I loved the lemony flavor and dill. We also had the oven roasted prawns ($12.75) with creamy tomato sauce and a nice little zing from feta cheese. My friend had the colorful Kokkari salad ($8) with arugula, cherry tomatoes, super crunchy Cretan rusk croutons and myzithra cheese in a vinaigrette. The croutons had a characteristically dry and hard texture which I imagine would be good for teething babies to gnaw on. Nevertheless, my friend enjoyed her salad. My charcoal-grilled octopus salad entrée ($14.50) with Greek peppers, frisée and white wine vinaigrette was fresh, filling and flavorful. The octopus was plentiful, had nice smoky flavor and tender, chewy texture.

They have a number of good wines by the glass, like a dark, deeply fruity, deliciously easy to drink Melville syrah ($13) from Santa Barbara.

This is still a wonderful place for both personal and business dining. They have multiple seating arrangements including: a grand hand-carved, wooden chef's table that seats 24 in the Kouzina; a 30-seat private Oenos, or wine room, adjacent to the Kouzina; and a lovely Hania room that seats 10 just a short elevator ride downstairs. Even their restrooms, located beyond the Hania room, are charming, although I wouldn't recommend dining there.

For more info: Kokkari Estiatorio, 200 Jackson Street at Front, San Francisco, 415.981.0983. Their sister restaurant, Evvia Estiatorio, is located at 420 Emerson Street in Palo Alto.

Friday, May 22, 2009

uber dinner II at supperclub San Francisco

On Monday, June 1st, supperclub will showcase the culinary prowess of Jennie Lorenzo from Michelin-rated Fifth Floor and Jamie Lauren from Absinthe and Top Chef fame. These renowned chefs will collaborate with supperclub SF's executive chef Guus Wickenhagen, and create special courses for this prix fixe dinner ($125) which includes wine pairings from Quintessa, Veramonte, Faust, Pommery, and Francis Coppola. Limited seats available, call 415.348.0900 for reservations.