Monday, May 18, 2009

Dine in casual elegance at Zinnia









Chef Sean O'Brien, who developed a loyal following at Myth, opened Zinnia with his wife Patricia last October. They offer delicious New American cuisine, including some Myth favorites like potato gnocchi, rigatoni with foie gras cream, roasted black cod, oysters in the half shell and his signature dish, seared sweetbreads. Located where Cypress Club, 500 Jackson and Scott Howard used to be, Zinnia is an upscale but unstuffy spot to grab cocktails and dinner.

The interior is spacious, simply adorned and warmly lit, with a relaxed, loungey feel.

They have fun specialty cocktails like the Jalisco Sour ($10) with tequila, lemon and orange juice, egg white and bitters; and The Secret Garden ($12) with Square One organic cucumber vodka, St. Germain elderflower liqueur and Prosecco. They make a pretty good Pimm's Cup ($10) with Pimm's No. 1, lemon-lime soda, ginger, mint and cucumber. My husband and his buddy are always happy whenever they see Trumer Pils ($5) and Chimay Red Label ($9) on the menu.

We love (exclamation point) the Hood Canal Oysters ($13), half a dozen Washington oysters presented with slurpalicously good lemongrass and lime juice topped with Yuzu tobiko. The poached Jidori egg ($11) is a winner, too, especially because I enjoy breakfast/brunch items any time of day, and this one is tasty. The egg sits atop chicken hash surrounded by beech mushrooms with chicken jus. The large crackling lends the perfect amount of salt and decadence to finish the dish. Another star on the menu is signature seared sweetbreads ($12), which are plated with bacon, sherry vinegar and haricot verts. They are addicting, and I could devour them by the bowlful.

The pastas and dishes from the sea come in two sizes. Rigatoni ($13/19) with foie gras cream, maitake mushrooms, and Marsala is nice although the foie gras is very subtle and the dish itself is surprisingly less memorable than the rigatoni they made for my daughter which had a rich and creamy, cheesy, buttery sauce reminiscent of mac and cheese. Seared Tasmanian trout ($15/26) in saffron sauce has a nice crispy skin with tender meat that is a pretty pink color similar to salmon. It comes with heirloom carrots and turnips. Scallops ($17/28) are seared to perfection and served with pioppini mushrooms, fennel, crispy potatoes and lobster sauce. You get two scallops with the smaller portion and three with the large.

The item that is just so-so is proscuitto wrapped escargot ($12) with crispy fennel, mache and rouille. They are salty little nuggets that could be anything, really, because you can't tell there is escargot in it.

The staff at Zinnia are impressively accommodating to the toddler set. We think their cozy booths by the window along Jackson Street provide a perfect, kid-friendly corner. When we ate dinner there recently, the hostess doted over our daughter and gave her a big box of crayons with a notepad to keep her occupied. Our server promptly sent out warm bread and butter for our hungry youngster to nibble on while the kitchen prepared her half order of rigatoni. And, they brought my daughter's food out along with the adult appetizers, so everyone was happy.

Zinnia may not be affordable everyday, but it is certainly a nice place to go on occasion. If you want to sample their fare at smaller prices, check them out during Halfsy Hour in the lounge and bar. From 5:00 - 7:00 p.m. on weeknights, they offer half price specialty cocktails, wines by the glass and premium beer, along with signature half portions of dinner menu items.

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