Kokkari - Greek fare good enough for the gods

Several years ago, when I was still working in an executive briefing center for a high tech company, my friends and I used to meet at Kokkari from time to time and have dinner before heading out for late night dancing and drinks. It was always bustling with attractive people, the food was consistently tasty, we loved the rustic and inviting atmosphere, and it was spacious enough to accommodate our larger numbers without feeling cramped.

It had been awhile since I'd been back, but last week, my girlfriend and I met there for lunch since she works nearby. Immediately, the friendly hostess and warm Saloni, or front room, with a large stone fireplace and dramatic bar, beckoned me. We were seated at a cheery table by the oversized window along Jackson street in the Kouzina, or kitchen dining area, with high ceilings. Although two different people asked us what type of water we wanted, the rest of lunch service was seamless. The food was better than I remember.

We shared grilled lamb riblets ($9.25) lightly seasoned with oregano and lemon which were hearty, finger-licking starters. We split dolmathes ($7), a plate of grape leaves stuffed with rice, dill and mint. I loved the lemony flavor and dill. We also had the oven roasted prawns ($12.75) with creamy tomato sauce and a nice little zing from feta cheese. My friend had the colorful Kokkari salad ($8) with arugula, cherry tomatoes, super crunchy Cretan rusk croutons and myzithra cheese in a vinaigrette. The croutons had a characteristically dry and hard texture which I imagine would be good for teething babies to gnaw on. Nevertheless, my friend enjoyed her salad. My charcoal-grilled octopus salad entrée ($14.50) with Greek peppers, frisée and white wine vinaigrette was fresh, filling and flavorful. The octopus was plentiful, had nice smoky flavor and tender, chewy texture.

They have a number of good wines by the glass, like a dark, deeply fruity, deliciously easy to drink Melville syrah ($13) from Santa Barbara.

This is still a wonderful place for both personal and business dining. They have multiple seating arrangements including: a grand hand-carved, wooden chef's table that seats 24 in the Kouzina; a 30-seat private Oenos, or wine room, adjacent to the Kouzina; and a lovely Hania room that seats 10 just a short elevator ride downstairs. Even their restrooms, located beyond the Hania room, are charming, although I wouldn't recommend dining there.

For more info: Kokkari Estiatorio, 200 Jackson Street at Front, San Francisco, 415.981.0983. Their sister restaurant, Evvia Estiatorio, is located at 420 Emerson Street in Palo Alto.